If you’re looking for one of the most iconic locations in outback Australia, you’ll find it here at the Devil’s Marbles in the Northern Territory. A must-see on any road trip along the Stuart Highway. Let’s dive into this unique landscape with my guide to visiting the Devil’s Marbles.
During my wife and I’s failed attempt at the lap of Australia, we spent a good few weeks road-tripping through the Red Centre. We had a good idea of what we wanted to see, Uluru and Kata Tjuta of course, but there was something else high up on our list that looked unlike anything we’d seen before; the Devil’s Marbles.
The Devil’s Marbles are a unique collection of giant ochre round boulders precariously balanced on top of one another right next to the Stuart Highway. If you’ve planned a trip to the Northern Territory or perhaps seen photos from this area of Australia, you’ll most likely know what I’m talking about. Visiting the Devil’s Marbles was one of the highlights of our trip to Australia for sure, they are stunning, and what’s better you can camp right underneath them!
When I say that visiting the Devil’s Marbles was one of the highlights of our trip to Australia, what I mean is, it was actually one of the very last things we did in Australia but you’ll have to read on to find out why!
THE DEVIL’S MARBLES (KARLU KARLU)
HISTORY
The Devil’s Marbles were discovered by English settlers during the 1870 overland telegraph line expedition by explorer John Ross who famously said ‘This is the Devil’s country, he’s even emptied his bag of marbles around the place!’
This is however traditional country for four aboriginal tribes; the Warumungu, Alyawarr, Kaytetye and the Warlpiri people with their name for this area being Karlu Karlu which translates as ’round boulder’.
The Dreamtime story tells of an ancient ancestor ‘Arrange’, the Devil Man, who was walking through the area wearing a hair-string belt. As he was twirling the hair to make strings, he dropped clusters of hair on the ground which turned into the big red boulders we see today. Traditionally, Karlu Karlu was a meeting place for all four tribes to undergo ceremonies.
In October 1961, the area was named Devil’s Marbles Reserve, then Devil’s Marbles Conservation Reserve in September 1979. In October 2008, the reserve was formally returned to traditional ownership and, since July 2011, is known as Karlu Karlu / Devil’s Marbles Conservation Reserve.
WHERE ARE THE DEVIL’S MARBLES?
You’ll find the Devil’s Marbles / Karlu Karlu literally on the eastern edge of the epic Stuart Highway; a highway which runs for almost 3,000km from Darwin to Port Augusta in South Australia. The reserve is in the Northern Territory just under 100km south of Tennant Creek and around 400km north of Alice Springs. Essentially in the middle of nowhere! It would take around 1 hour to drive from Tennant Creek or 4.5 hours from Alice Springs.
Whilst you could possibly visit the Devil’s Marbles as a day trip, it makes sense to build it into a road-trip either when travelling south towards Alice Springs and onto Uluru or north on the road to Darwin. You can’t miss the reserve either to be fair as the massive boulders are visible from the highway. There are tours that you can book that are designed to showcase this beautiful area of Australia which will include a trip to the Devil’s Marbles if you don’t have access to your own vehicle.
WHAT TO DO AT THE DEVIL’S MARBLES
The best thing to do at the Devil’s Marbles is simply wander through the reserve and observing the natural beauty of the stacks of boulders. Honestly, the boulders will blow your mind; constantly questioning how on earth is it possible for these rocks, some reaching 6m in diameter, to balance so precariously defying the laws of gravity. You could walk around the Devil’s Marbles more than once and keep finding something new to interest you.
Pay attention to the warning signs, please don’t climb on the boulders out of respect.
If you are staying at the campsite, there’s nothing like watching the sunset here; watching the sky filter through its huge array of colours and reflecting those back onto the boulders as they showcase their deep red tones.
CAMPING AT THE DEVIL’S MARBLES
Given the location of the Devil’s Marbles, it makes perfect sense to set up camp here for the night. When we arrived in mid-afternoon, it was absolutely packed with huge motorhomes and lengthy caravans but we managed literally to squeeze between two to ensure we could stay the night. It’s a completely unpowered site/parking area with picnic tables and pit toilets which, to be fair, is all you need. I know it’s hot but showers are few and far between when roadtripping the outback!
When we visited, we paid $3.50 each which we had to pay in cash and place in an envelope to be collected. However, it seems as though you now have to pay online before you arrive so make sure you plan in advance. There is free Wi-Fi here too (which is hilarious as you can’t even get decent Wi-Fi back home in England). Fees are now $10 per adult, $5 per child or $25 for a family including 2 adults and up to 4 children.
There are 24 spots plus an area for tents and there’s a maximum stay of 24 hours. Make sure you bring all supplies with you, including plenty of drinking water, as there’s literally nothing here.
If there’s no space here, there’s a caravan park at the Devil’s Marbles Hotel less than 10km south of the reserve or further north you’ll find a free camp at the Devil’s Pebbles (WikiCamps) though access is via an unsealed corrugated road.
CHECK AVAILABILITY AND BOOK YOUR STAY
ARE THE DEVIL’S MARBLES CURSED?
Woah. Ok. Perhaps this isn’t a question that’s asked that often but I am honestly convinced that the Devil’s Marbles are cursed. I haven’t gone mad I promise, there’s no need for an intervention.
As I mentioned above, the Devil’s Marbles or Karlu Karlu is an extremely sacred place to the Aboriginal traditional owners. This area was used for ceremonies where four different tribes came together; dancing and singing to the spirit people. It is said that the boulders hold such powers that any disturbance to them would have significant consequences for their guardians. There are warnings in place throughout stating that you should not climb on the boulders nor take photos of certain areas due to just how sacred this area is.
Now, I’m sorry to say that on the morning we were leaving the Devil’s Marbles to continue our drive north towards Darwin, there was one photo opportunity that was far too good to miss away from the main site. One particular boulder was on its own balancing almost by magic that looked as though one little push could topple it over. Both Emma and I stood next to the boulder and had our photo taken; we didn’t harm anything, we left everything as we found out, it was just a photo.
However, within a few hours, our campervan that had travelled over 16,000km and had been serviced could take us no further. Just outside of Renner Springs, the engine died a horrible death and despite attempts from various mechanics could not be revived whatsoever. It was over.
We relied upon the good will of passers by (and our breakdown cover) to bring us back to Tennant Creek from where we hitchhiked down to Alice Springs. We had lost around $10,000 with having to leave the campervan behind only taking what belongings we could carry. With the money gone, we ultimately ended up leaving Australia altogether within a matter of weeks. We spoke with locals in Tennant Creek who regularly saw such incidents after people had visited the Devil’s Marbles which, when put together, freaked me out. There were people who had had heart attacks the very next day after visiting and others who suffered the same fate as us.
Indeed, there are many more odd stories that I’ve read including one from 1948 whereby constable Maxwell Gilbert was returning back to Tennant Creek alongside an Aboriginal tracker. The car apparently suddenly overturned, throwing the tracker free, but killing the constable who lay alongside the wrecked car underneath one of the Devil’s Marbles.
I’m not saying for certain that the Devil’s Marbles are cursed, I don’t really believe it things like that at all, but there’s something extremely spiritual about the Devil’s Marbles so just be respectful!
What do you think? Aren’t the Devil’s Marbles literally unreal? If you’re planning a huge roadtrip through the outback, make sure you stop by to experience this breathtaking landscape!
If you’ve got any questions at all or need any more information, let me know in the comments below.
WHERE NEXT?
Ok, let’s be honest, it’s taken me long enough to find the time to publish guides covering my time in Australia. Now though, the majority of them are linked below, so wherever you’re heading you’re likely to find what you need below!
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