Palermo City Guide: 17 Brilliant Things to Do in Palermo, Sicily

The Sicilian capital, Palermo, is very different to cities across mainland Italy. It’s raw, it’s gritty, it’s beautiful. Whether you’re spending a week or a few nights, this is my guide to the best things to do in Palermo!

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Palermo is somewhere that, just about, still flies under the radar when many consider a European city break. I’ve always loved an underdog, a place perhaps just on the brink of over-tourism and I fell in love with Palermo with minutes. It’s gritty and rough round the edges yet full of charm, churches and a lively food and drink scene.

It wasn’t always like this though, many know Palermo due its issues with the Mafia throughout the 1970’s and 1980’s yet time has moved on and so has Palermo. This is one of the best alternative city break destinations in the whole of Europe where you’ll find unique Norman and Arab architecture, incredible street food, lively North-African like markets and real Sicilian life around every corner.

To help plan your visit to the capital of Sicily, I’ve put together this guide covering the best things to do in Palermo!

I recently spent five glorious nights in Palermo; two solo and three on a press trip with Visit Sicily. As always, all opinions and views are entirely my own!

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17 BRILLIANT THINGS TO DO IN PALERMO

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CATTEDRALE DI PALERMO

For those with little background knowledge on Sicily’s history and, particularly, the many different cultures that each conquered this island, the architectural gem that is Palermo Cathedral will helpfully provide a lesson or two. The cathedral was completed in 1184, a Christian church built on the site of a Muslim mosque, and its style is clearly a pastiche of Norman and Arab architecture; the new Norman ruler of Sicily, King Roger II, wished to appeal to all cultures and religions perhaps in an attempt to prevent open revolt and civil war.

The cathedral’s unique style was more than impressive; I was blown away by its beauty. It was certainly an ‘oh wow’ moment when I first walked into the palm-tree filled piazza.

However, I was quite disappointed when entering the cathedral if I’m honest. It was rather, let’s say, bland with white painted walls. Christian grandeur this was not.

It’s free to enter the cathedral if you’re only visiting the main area of the church but €12 for those wishing to access all areas including the tombs, crypts and the terrace.

CHURCHES – CHIESA DI SANTA CATERINA, CHURCH OF ST MARY OF THE ADMIRAL & CHIESA DI SAN GIUSEPPE CAFASSO

I’m certainly not religious but, given the historical importance of various churches across Palermo, it would have been rude of me not to have a little peek inside. I enjoyed visiting Chiesa di Santa Caterina, a historic convent, which has a stunning interior as well as some of the best views across Palermo to the mountains beyond on its rooftop. I’d say the views alone were worth visiting for. There’s also a busy bakery on-site with fresh bakes being prepared by the nuns.

The Church of St Mary of the Admiral is on the opposite side of the piazza to Chiesa di Santa Caterina and is famous for its gold-leaf interiors and Byzantine mosiacs. Another extremely popular site in Palermo, especially with tour groups from the cruise ships. I was mildly annoyed after spending ten minutes queuing only for a large group of 30 or so being chaperoned past so that they could record the beauty inside on their iPads. I was in and out within about five minutes.

Finally, Chiesa di San Giuseppe Cafasso was another of my favourite churches in Palermo; one we visited on our cycling tour of the city. You’d expect this church to be a mosque given its obviously Arab architecture but no it’s a Christian church dating back hundreds of years!

FONTANA PRETORIA

You’ll be hard pressed to miss this impressive marble fountain given it’s a cent-throw away from Quattro Canti, the crossing point of two of Palermo’s main streets. The fountain was originally built in Florence in the 16th century but was ultimately transported in 644 separate pieces to Palermo as a means of settling a debt.

There are many statues around the fountain including a crazed variety of animals but also completely nude men and women. As a result, the fountain and the piazza it sits in was known as the Square of Shame (Piazza della Vergogna).

At the time of my visit, the fountain was devoid of water and a fence now prevents access however it’s still a must-see on any trip to Palermo. The best view is from the rooftop of Chiesa di Santa Caterina.

OUTDOOR FOOD MARKETS

Palermo is synonymous with street food and where better to devour some of the best Sicilian food than at one of Palermo’s famous open-air markets; Mercato di Ballaro, Mercato del Capo and Mercato di Vucciria. Ballaro is the most popular, as well as the largest and oldest, and I’ll never forget just how lively a Sunday morning walk was through the market stalls. Stallholders shouting and singing, locals ten deep ordering Pane ci meusa (just one of the many things to eat in Sicily) and many tourists taste testing everything in sight. Given Sicily’s proximity to northern Africa and historical Arab influences, the markets of Palermo could easily be mistaken for an Arabic souk.

Both Mercato di Ballaro and Mercato del Capo are well worth visiting in the morning, certainly before lunch, whilst Mercato di Vucciria really comes alive one the sun goes down! There’s no doubt that these are some of the best places to eat in Palermo.

One of the best ways to explore the markets is with a guided tour and this particular tour is restricted to just a small group with a local guided you through the best street food in Palermo!

VILLA BONANNO

Between the Norman Palace and Palermo Cathedral lies the Villa Bonanno Garden; a surprisingly tranquil and stunning oasis full of hundreds of towering palm trees and fountains. A perfect spot to take a minute or two away from the hustle and bustle of the city streets.

VIA VITTORIO EMANUELE / VIA MAQUEDA / QUATTRO CANTI

Wandering along the main street of Palermo, Vittorio Emanuele, is certainly one of the best things to do in Palermo especially as it doesn’t cost a cent. This arrow straight road, closed to traffic, stretches for almost two miles from the coast at Porto Felice to Porta Nuova next to the Norman Palace. Wherever you’re heading in the city, you’ll soon come to know this street like the back of your hand utilising it to access pretty much all of the main attractions. It’s also home to Cappadonia; head here for the city’s best brioche con gelato.

Vittorio Emanuele meets Via Maqueda at Quattro Canti, the Four Corners; probably the most-used meeting place in Palermo. It’s an extremely popular crossing with tour groups and buskers so I wouldn’t aim to spend too long here; a quick look at each of the four impressive facades is enough. If you can visit early enough, you may find yourself alone in what would ordinarily be one of the best places to visit if it weren’t so busy. Via Maqueda turned out to be one of my favourite streets in Palermo especially as the sun went down; it’s busy but the atmosphere was electric at each of the bars and restaurants – Capocollo does insane aperitivo boards.

NORMAN PALACE & PALATINE CHAPEL

Visiting both the Norman Palace and the Palatine Chapel is widely regarded as the highlight of any trip to Palermo. Whilst there are so many churches across Palermo, even the most religious could perhaps tire a little, you should certainly make time to visit the palace and, in particular, the Palatine Chapel. The chapel, on the second floor of the palace, is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site and is meant to be out of this world. Walls covered in gold with some of the best Byzantine mosiacs that can be seen today.

It costs €19 for a ticket to visit the entire complex including the palace, Palatine Chapel and Royal Gardens. We didn’t have time to visit during our few days in the city but there were lengthy queues of visitors even in late September so plan ahead!

Hours – Monday to Saturday 8:30am to 4:30pm, Sundays and Public Holidays 8:30am to 12:30pm

TEATRO MASSIMO

The largest opera house in Italy (third largest in Europe) is right here in Palermo; the Teatro Massimo. If you’re lucky enough to get tickets, watching an opera is certainly one of the best things to do in Palermo though you could opt for a guided tour instead. For me, even just standing outside admiring the beauty of this theatre was good enough! Did you know that a scene from The Godfather Part III was filmed here; I didn’t and it’s probably a film I really need to watch.

Giardini del Massimo, based on the ground floor, is one of the top places to eat in Palermo and, just like the exterior, is beautiful with its marble floors and ornate columns. Our meal here was incredible with a wide selection of Sicilian dishes from the menu available to share. A slight surprise but my favourite dish was the vegetarian parmigiana!

GIARDINO GARIBALDI

One of my favourite spots in Palermo, Giardino Garibaldi is an elegant garden featuring the oldest tree in the city; a 25m high 150 year old ficus tree. The garden is lovely, surrounded by palaces and piazzas. On Sundays, head here for the very popular flea market.

BOTANICAL GARDENS / VILLA GIULIA

These are two parks, side by side, though separated by fencing meaning that you can either visit the quiet, palm tree lined, Villa Giula for free or the much more ornate Orto Botanico di Palermo for €7. I didn’t get chance to visit the Botanic Gardens though the majestic gateway and spectacular lighting made for one of my favourite photos from my time away in Palermo.

Villa Giula, the first city park, holds a secret linked to the Freemasons. Each of the statues and their placement across the park all hold a deeper meaning which ultimately lead to an even quieter area which is dedicated to figures of importance throughout history.

KALSA NEIGHBOURHOOD

La Kalsa is without doubt my favourite of the four traditional neighbourhoods of Palermo and, if you like your afternoons loud, unpretentious and laid-back, then I’m confident that it will be yours too. This is the ‘cool’ and ‘hip’ part of Palermo full of natural wine bars and trendy cocktail bars (where locals drink in street art covered alleyways), Scandinavian cafes and flea markets and plenty of opportunities for great street photography.

A few personal recommendations are Botteghe Colletti and dal Barone (just two of the best bars in Palermo), OJDÅ for coffee and a bite to eat, Ai Bottai for an evening aperitivo board and Porta Felice; a historic gateway entrance to the city allowing for unrivalled views from the ocean down the arrow straight Via Vittorio Emmanuelle all the way to Porta Nuova.

HEAD UP HIGH FOR THE BEST VIEWS OF PALERMO

Palermo’s location is one that deserves to be viewed from as high up as possible. The city is nestled between the Tyrrhenian Sea and a circular mountain range one of which, La Pizzuta, tops out at over 4,000ft! There are a few places in the city that offer stunning views across the city blocks, above Baroque churches and fountains to the mountains beyond. Three of my recommendations for the best views in Palermo are on the roof terrace of Chiesa di Santa Caterina, at Sicilo Food & View 360 and up on the terrace of Cattedrale di Palermo.

NO MAFIA MEMORIAL

Is it time to talk about the mafia? Any mention of Sicily and Palermo to many will immediately bring up questions as to whether it’s safe to visit and whether the mafia still operate there. It’s true that a still-too high proportion of businesses pay protection money to the mafia (not through choice) but gone are the days of assassinations of Judges on the streets of Palermo. I’m not going to pretend I know the ins and outs of the history of the mafia’s influence on this island so I would highly recommend attending the No Mafia Memorial (free museum, closed on Tuesdays) in a prominent location on Via Vittorio Emanuele or perhaps joining a walking tour to learn more from those best placed to teach.

CYCLING TOUR

Possibly not one for the faint of heart thanks to Palermo’s heavy traffic and anarchic roads but we were kept extremely safe as we cycled around by those at Sicicla. The bike tour hit all of the major attractions across the city, as well as some lesser known sites, and was a pleasant way to spend half a day. We were also treated to a spread of Sicilian dishes at Mercato del Capo though the weather wasn’t playing ball and it was, quite frankly, akin to monsoon season in south-east Asia.

PROMENDADE – FORO ITALICO

To be fair, it didn’t seem to me that many people make it a few blocks out of the old city to wander along the promenade which is a shame. The promenade, built upon land that was used for dumping the remains of ruined buildings during WWII, offers peace and quiet along with views across the bay to Monte Pellegrino.

MONDELLO BEACH

If you’re in Palermo for longer than just a few nights, you might need a beach day and, within the city limits, Mondello Beach is where you should head! It’s just 35-minutes from the centre aboard the 806 bus with beautiful white sand and turquoise waters. As you can imagine, it won’t be just you on the beach, at least in the summer months, as Palermitans absolutely love visiting Mondello!

ZINGARO NATURE RESERVE

Sicily’s original nature reserve can be found at Zingaro, around an hour and 15 minutes west of Palermo, which makes it perfect for a day trip or a stopover if you’re road tripping around the west coast. Everything you need to know about visiting Zingaro Nature Reserve is here in my helpful guide!

WHERE TO STAY IN PALERMO

What you won’t find in the centre of Palermo are high rise, super modern chain hotels. Instead, you’ll be wanting to stay in one of the very many B&Bs on offer which are charming and often the host will happily share local knowledge. Two B&Bs that I can personally recommend are Ai Tre Mercati, slap bang in the middle of the action on Via Maqueda, and Mercede Rooms (who saved me after the place I’d originally booked didn’t actually have a room for me…). My luxury option would be the Casa Nostra Boutique Hotel. I’d probably skip on staying at the Hotel Europa mind unless you like your rooms straight from the 1970’s in fifty shades of brown.

HOW TO GET TO PALERMO FROM PALERMO AIRPORT (FALCONE-BORSELLINO AIRPORT)

I arrived in Palermo ready and prepared for my journey into the city which, if you’re unprepared, might be a little daunting at first. Even though the airport is around 35kms west of the city, it’s pretty straight forward and inexpensive to get into the centre.

My preferred route is onboard the airport bus, Prestia e Comande, which runs every 30 minutes from outside the airport entrance doors (just head to the right as you exit) to the bus station next to the train station. This took around 50 minutes taking into account the notorious Palermo traffic. There are various stops along the way so it may make sense to get off earlier (such as outside the Teatro Massimo).

Tickets cost €6 single or €10 return and can be bought from the desk within the airport, on board with cash or card or via GetYourGuide.

Other convenient ways to get into Palermo from the airport including the train (€6.50 – one hour) or shared taxis which can work out relatively cheap if you don’t mind the company.

WHERE NEXT?

11 GREAT PLACES TO EAT IN PALERMO
A GUIDE TO ZINGARO NATURE RESERVE
A GUIDE TO MAZARA DEL VALLO
ON THE STREETS: MAZARA DEL VALLO
ON THE STREETS: PALERMO
THE 10 BEST BARS IN PALERMO
THE BEST THINGS TO DO IN TRAPANI
A GUIDE TO VISITING SELINUNTE ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK
EXPLORE ‘IL GRANDE CRETTO’ IN GIBELLINA
A SICILIAN FOOD GUIDE: WHAT TO EAT IN SICILY

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