A Guide to Mazara del Vallo, Sicily

On Sicily’s south west corner lies the coastal fishing town of Mazara del Vallo with its unique blend of Italy and North Africa. If you’re planning a visit to Sicily, I’m here to help with my guide to Mazara del Vallo.

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Sitting closer to Tunis, the capital of Tunisia, than Naples, it’s no suprise to see the North African influence across Mazara del Vallo. Mazara del Vallo is a coastal fishing town on the south west coast of Sicily split in two by the Mazaro River. Despite being one of the most important fishing ports in Italy, Mazara del Vallo is beautiful in its own right and you’ll find a unique blend of history, culture, ethnicity and, as with everywhere in Sicily, great food.

Mazara del Vallo was founded in the 9th Century BC by the Phoenicians before being under the control of many empires including the Greeks, Romans, Arabs and Normans. It was under the Arabs that the city flourished, becoming Sicily’s second city behind Palermo and there remains a strong Arab contingent with the streets clearly influenced by years of Arab rule. The Normans, as they did across Sicily under King Roger, built stunning cathedrals and churches in their unique architectural style; a clear example of the King seeking to appease many different ethnicities who called Sicily their home. Mazara del Vallo is a city whose diversity throughout history is laid bare for those lucky enough to visit.

If you’re planning a visit, let me help you with my guide to Mazara del Vallo.

Disclaimer: I spent seven nights in Sicily with five of those as part of a press trip with Visit Sicily and two solo. As always, all thoughts and opinions are entirely my own.

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A GUIDE TO MAZARA DEL VALLO SICILY

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Kasbah – Islamic Quarter

The highlight of Mazara del Vallo is without doubt its Kasbah, the ancient Arab Quarter. The labyrinth of narrow streets and passageways would have you believe you’re in North Africa, not Italy. Indeed, over 3,000 Tunisians still live in and around Mazara del Vallo. The best way to explore the Kasbah is on foot and just simply getting lost. No matter which street you wander down or which alleyway you choose to take, you’ll find beauty whether that be in the form of the architecture itself or colourful ceramic tiles depicting the history of the town.

It won’t take too long to explore the Kasbah though there are guided walking tours available that will bring this neighbourhood alive with stories of the history and of the community that call this place home.

Piazza della Repubblica

Piazza della Repubblica is the main square of Mazara del Vallo surrounded by a stunning Norman cathedral, churches and the neo-classical Palazzo del Seminario with its 24 glorious arches. The square is a great place in itself to sit and watch daily Sicilian life pass by. I managed to get involved with some local kids passing a football around, watched a newly married bride and groom having their day captured by two photographers and a drone and took, quite possibly, the best photo I have ever taken. I know that’s a statement to make but taking photos of people has always been my weakness in travel photography so to overcome that and take the portrait of this lovely old Sicilian man smoking his cigar makes it all the better.

Cattedrale del Santissimo Salvatore

The Cattedrale del Santissimo Salvatore stands at the end of the Piazza della Repubblica and is, as I described above, stunning. Originally built in 1086 by the Normans, the cathedral underwent its most dramatic change in the 16th century where it was renovated in its current Baroque style. Mazara del Vallo surprises visitors at every opportunity and its cathedral is no exception; it is a must see on any visit to the city.

If I’m honest, I was more impressed with the interior of this cathedral than I was of the cathedral in Palermo. The frescoes painting on the ceiling are intricate and colourful plus you’ll find a silver altar and a historic wooden cross dating back to the 1300’s seemingly levitating high above you.

Chiesa di San Nicolo Regale

Dating back to 1124, the Chiesa di San Nicolo Regale is a fine example of Arab-Norman architecture which can be found all across Sicily. The church is only small and reminded me of the Chiesa San Cataldo in Palermo; I realised I quite like the blend of what I had assumed were two completely different cultures and two different religions. This building has always been a church but you wouldn’t be a fool to see the similarities to a mosque. We weren’t able to access the interior unfortunately but were lucky enough to have access to underneath the church where you can see ancient Roman mosiacs.

The City of 100 Churches

Mazara del Vallo is sometimes referred to as the ‘City of 100 Churches’ and it’s not hard to see why. There are churches all across the city and you’ll find many that are equally as beautiful as the last. Whilst I’m not religious, I can appreciate the architecture and facades so I don’t mind taking in the view so to speak. Some of my favourites in Mazara del Vallo were found just through walking the city streets. The Chiesa di Santa Veneranda was a particular highlight as was the Chiesa di san Calcedonio and the calming palm-tree lined plaza it protects. Chiesa di Sant’Ignazio was one we witnessed from above with a drone’s eye view; an oval shaped ruined church almost Amphitheatre like.

Ristorante L’Antica Sicilia

There are many great restaurants and places to eat in Mazara del Vallo but my recommendation has to be Ristorante L’Antica Sicilia in the heart of the old town. Firstly, the location will blow you away; after wandering down Via Garibaldi with its many lanterns you’ll arrive at a small square and the restaurant. Sitting outside in this little square creates a unique atmosphere that I felt elevated this restaurant to one of the best places to eat in Mazara del Vallo.

We had the fish platter to start which featured the distinctive Mazara red prawn and cous cous. To be fair, I’m not a big fish eater whatsoever but I put on a brave face and really enjoyed it alongwith the main of fish pasta with the unique Trapani ‘busiate’ style pasta.

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HOW TO GET TO MAZARA DEL VALLO

I would recommend visiting Mazara Del Vallo on a trip around West Sicily for perhaps one or two nights. Whilst renting a car in Sicily to some would be daunting, there is probably no better way to get around and explore the island. Driving in Palermo is definitely not for the fainthearted but I didn’t see anything wrong with the main roads outside of the city that would put me off driving. The nearest airport is at Trapani and it’s around an hours drive south from there (55km) or approximately 90 minutes south of Palermo (130km). There are hourly trains too from Palermo which only take approximately 1 hour 45 minutes for just €9.20 and from Trapani taking around an hour for €4.40.

WHERE NEXT?

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A GUIDE TO ZINGARO NATURE RESERVE
PALERMO CITY GUIDE: 17 THINGS TO DO IN PALERMO
ON THE STREETS: MAZARA DEL VALLO
ON THE STREETS: PALERMO
THE 10 BEST BARS IN PALERMO
THE BEST THINGS TO DO IN TRAPANI
A GUIDE TO VISITING SELINUNTE ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK
EXPLORE ‘IL GRANDE CRETTO’ IN GIBELLINA
A SICILIAN FOOD GUIDE: WHAT TO EAT IN SICILY

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